Brothers M. MiM ’23 – We like to Move it, Move it

Brothers M. Mondays in May is our tradition of sharing our excitement about our chickens every Monday in May.

It’s easiest to have a long enough piece of pasture that you can run the chicken tractors in one direction from start to finish.  Our pasture is long enough to do this; however, the contour of our pasture makes it better for the chickens to start near middle.  So we have to change direction midway through the growing season.

Our pasture is high near the middle, highest maybe 1/3 it’s length toward the road end.  The slop near the road is a gentle slope and the house end is more aggressive.  This makes the road end a marshy area in the early spring when all the rains come and the house end a river. Neither are good for young chickens in the cold nights of spring.

Moving1-1Our solution is to start the chicken tractors on the high ground and head toward the road, then reverse direction and head back toward the house.   This means we need a wider area to run the chicken tractors so we don’t overlap where they’ve already been.  Basically 6 lanes, 3 forward, 3 reverse.

It’s easy to move the chicken tractors in either direction, but moving over out of the previous track has proven harder than it sounds, at least for me.

My first thought was to sit the tractor on four 1 1/4″ PVC pipes and just sliding it over.  It was easy to slide the tractor over, but since PVD pipes come in 10′ lengths and the chicken tractor boards are 10′ 1.5″ apart, I needed extra sections of pipe. Additionally, the chickens were confused about which way to move and it’s harder to convince them to move sideways.  Overall this was more labor intensive and frustrating.

moving2-3Next I played around with turning the chicken tractor hard in one direction.  Either way I tried this, it always took more distance than I thought to get the tractor on the right path.  When doing a hard turn it’s difficult to push and the side aprons bend under the chicken tractor and you have to pull them out.  Again, the chickens are used to going forward and you have to be careful not to run over them with the side of the tractor.

The method on the right in this illistration wasn’t too bad, but this method took up a lot of space with wise.  Our pasture has a V shape and drains down the middle, so we only have enough “smooth” area for the 6 paths plus the “river” in the middle during heavy rains.   Also the first move in the reverse direction was pretty long, so I didn’t like this method either.

Moving4-1Finally I did a LONG walk forward with a medium turn to the side, then reversed direction with another medium turn and this worked much better.  I modified it so instead of a LONG walk, I do a generous move of the chicken tractor twice, then reverse direction.  The first reverse move is a little longer than normal, but not a Long walk. Occasionally a little corner of the previous path overlaps, but it’s under the front cross member and not a problem.

I consider myself decent at geometry and puzzling things together and these moving patterns may seem obvious; but, there’s nothing like doing a hard turn forward with a chicken tractor, then doing a hard turn in the opposite direction just to realize you’re basically where you started.    Also, my drawings are not the best and may not be completely accurate, but I CAN tell you the last one is the one that’s easiest for me even if I cannot exactly explain/demonstrate what was wrong with the others.

Brothers M. MiM ’23 – Feeding Frenzy

Brothers M. Mondays in May is our tradition of sharing our excitement about our chickens every Monday in May.

Sharks get all the attention for their ferocious feeding frenzies, but chickens frenzy too.  Chickens are not ferocious, but they can injure each other as they are trying to get to the food.

FeedingIn the early years, I adopted the line of thought of keeping food always available to the chickens.  This meant 2 feeders were adequate to feed all the chickens, because they were not all hungry at one time.

Now I’ve grown to adopt a twice a day feeding method.  The birds seem healthier and more energetic when they are not allowed to eat constantly.  They also seem to forage more in between feedings. This requires more feeders to accommodate more birds “at the table”, and to hold more food, but the results are worth it.

Brothers M. MiM ’23 – Chicken Tractor Life Expectancy

Brothers M. Mondays in May is our tradition of sharing our excitement about our chickens every Monday in May.

As I said in the last post, more on wire rusts and wood rots.  Ten years ago I built 2  chicken tractors and this year some of the chicken wire is rusted beyond protection and the rest is questionable.  So to cut to the chase, 9 years is how long my chicken tractor lasted.

NewWireOne of the two tractors developed holes in the chicken wire late last year, I think from birds landing on it, so I knew I needed to replace some of the wire this year.  What I didn’t know was that ants had destroyed the front board of that tractor.  Here’ a picture of what I replaced at the 11th hour to get me through this year, one section of wire over the top, new front board, and new chicken wire on the front.  The 2nd tractor didn’t have holes yet, so I just added some fencing over the same area I replaced on the first.  That will get us through the growing season.

Most of the wood frame could probably go another year or two.  There’s evidence that ants have started homes in the wood, but most of it still seems solid.  Where I went wrong was that I added a board to the front of this chicken tractor because there was a big knot where we pull from.  The ants crawled between the boards and got a foot hold.  Also, I think the board I added may not have been treated. I probably meant to replace it and forgot.WoodAnts

rusted wireRust is the main factor in rebuilding the chicken tractors.  All the chicken wire needs replace.  Some would easily break off while the rest is getting there. Here’s a flattened pile of the wire.  The top, is the worst place, but the sides are not too far behind.  I think next time once it appears the wire may start rusting, I’ll treat it with some anti rust spray.

As I said, I’m not going to repair the old ones, it’s too much work just to get a couple more years.  I’ll spray and re-use the cattle panels, re-use the old doors as they have already been replaced once and are easy to replace, but the rest will be new.

Here’s a picture of the back of the tractor so you can see how well the pallet planks held up.  Really not bad considering the age.

TractorBack

Here’s a link to my ‘How to build a Chicken Tractor’ page.

Brothers M. Mondays in May 2022 – Brooder Series Week 5

Brothers M. Monday is our way of sharing our excitement  about our chickens.

Folding1We still needed more brooder area, but I really didn’t want to dedicate more area to just brooders so I came up with the idea of fold up brooders that hang on the wall.

Folding2I made two 2’x4′  hinged brooder boxes. The bottom is hinged to the wall so it folds down, the two sides fold into the floor, and the front is hinged to Fold under the bottom.  The lid had hinge pins so you could take it off and hang it on the folded down brooder or store it someplace else.

folding3To support the front of the folding brooder, I hung chains from the rafters with S hooks on either end to unhook from the brooder and remove from the rafter to store the chains away.

I liked the boxes, but because of their size, they didn’t hold many chicks after I added the feeder and waterer, about 15, 20 max.  Also, I only folded them down when I had to have the space and they stayed up most of the time.

4x4So, I decided to take them out and make a 4×4 in the back corner.  A family member made a similar brooder to this one and gave me the idea.  The idea is that it’s 4’x4’x1′ so you can make it out of one 4×8 sheet.  I made mine a bit taller and added a strip of wire mesh, this was to give me a little more height for waterers and feeders, and I thought I might make more and stack them for transporting the full grown grown chickens, the latter never really panned out.

Even though this makes getting to the back corners of the two brooders in the back of the lean-to, I really prefer this brooder over the 2 hanging brooders.  It worked well this year.

Brothers M. Mondays in May 2022 – Brooder Series Week 4

Brothers M. Mondays is our way of sharing our excitement  about our chickens.

I decided we should have a dedicated brooder area so I cleared out my 8’x16′ lean-to and enclosed it. I lined one long wall with 2 3’x8′ brooder boxes.  The back is 3′ high and the front is 2′ high.  I chose 3′ wide to make it easy to reach the birds in the back; likewise, that’s why the front is shorter.  The back is higher so I can fit a 3gal waterer under the lid.  Additionally, I started out needing clearance for the lights which hung from the lid.

The lid is 2×2 frames with 1/4 hardware cloth, hinged in the back so it lifts up.  I use safety hooks to fasten it down so raccoons cannot unhook it.  I put additional eyehooks in the roof rafters so we can use the safety hooks to hold the lid up.

I switched the lights to sit on top the lid vs hanging because the chickens kept knocking the lights and they would fail; we lost several birds one night because of that.  So instead I sat the lights on top the lid, and attached the shroud to with pieces of wire.   I had to cut a hole in the lid to allow the lamp to protrude through since it sticks out further than the shroud.  This also comes in handy when I need to change a bulb.

Used pickle barrels line the opposing wall and make a safe place to store the feed. These brooders will hold 100 chicks each.

Brothers M. Mondays in May 2022 – Brooder Series Week 3

Brothers M. Mondays(on Tuesday this week) is our way of sharing our excitement  about our chickens.

Trailer1

We have a 3 1/2′ x 7′ wooden trailer, which became our next brooder.  I added a lid to it so we could use it to take the chickens to our processor.  It doubled as a pretty good brooder.  My biggest concern was that predators would breath through the lid, it’s made out of a 1×3 frame and 1/4 inch hardware cloth.  It’s pretty sturdy for travel when it’s locked down, but not really meant to keep something from chewing and pulling at the corners.

Trailer2Turns out I should have been more concerned about how secure the heat lamps were attached via the squeeze handle.  One fell off and burned a hole in the floor of the trailer.  Fortunately the conditions were right and it only smoldered a hold the size of a basketball instead of starting a fire.  Unfortunately I cannot find my picture of the hold.  After that I fastened the lights securely to the lid, which looked pretty ominous from outside the tent.

trailer3The down side of the trailer was running off an extension cord, how deep the trailer was for reaching onto it, and we outgrew it once we started raising more than 100 birds at a time.

Since I was worried about predators, I setup a trail-cam during one run.  Here’s a bonus video I made out of it, hope it makes up for the delayed post.

Portable Chicken Coop / Tractor – Lighting (revisited)

old lightI touched on the light for the Portable Chicken Coop in the Electronics post, which really was just putting my previous Supplemental Light setup in the new coop.  Given how quickly the battery can be drained in the short overcast days of winter, I wanted to revisit the lighting to see if I could improve the lighting, while reducing the wattage to extend the battery life.

The main goal of this redesign is to do away with the single 5w E26 LED Bulb (I bought a 2 pack, but only used 1) and reduce the wattage required for lighting.  To do this, I looked at these 1w G4 LED bulbs.  These have a clear glass, where the 5w bulb had a diffused plastic cover.  They are also a daylight bulb, where the 5w was warm light.  I expected both these factors to mean I could use less and get more or the same light.

PVC attemptI purchased a pack of G4 bases and started my build. I decided on doing a strip with 3 lights.  Hopefully I could pull one bulb out and get away with just 2 lights.  Either way, that would reduce my wattage from 5w to either 3w or 2w based on the number of bulbs.

My initial thought was to use PVC and run the wire inside the pipe and have the bulbs exposed on the outside.  It was tough getting the wires soldered and back through the small opening needed for the base of the bulb, but I did it.  However, after I drilled the holes for the screws and started attaching the base, I realized how fragile the porcelain bases were.

I broke the edges of the first base, but managed to get it secured.  When the 2nd base broke, I decided to rethink my design.  Obviously the flanged wood screws I was using would put pressure on the base promoting breaking, but I was being careful not to put too much pressure.  And all but one of the base breaks happened before I got the head down to the base.

For my redesign, I decided to use a strip of wood.  It’s more forgiving and would allow me to have open Installed led stripaccess to the wires on the back side for easy soldering and such.  One of the main issues with breaking the bases was that I struggled getting the right angle drilled for the screws on the round pipe.  A flat piece of wood should allow me better control on the angle.

Looking around my basement, I found a scrap strip of OSB, apparently just waiting for me to make a light strip out of it.   I drilled the holes for the wires and was pleased that the bases went on much easier.  Still using wood screws, I had to be careful on how tight I tightened the screws, basically just lightly touching the base.

Light housingOriginally, I wasn’t planning on any protection for the lights, thinking the light was high enough on the ceiling that it wouldn’t get hit.  However, when I did a fit on the lights, the clearance really wasn’t’ that high, so I decided to make some protectors.   I had sections of 1/2 x 1inch chicken floor that I replaced with 1×1 wire.  I cut 3 pieces of this, curled the wire ends so I could attach it with screws and voilà protected lights.

Yes, you may notice the receptacle in the photo with the light strip.  I used an old electrical cord for the wiring, so I decided to add a household receptacle to plug it into so it’s easier to remove if I need to fix anything.  Also, I ended up using all 3 lights; the chickens seem to lay better that way.

I used this strip all winter and it was only in the late winter that I had any issues with having to swap batteries a couple of times to recharge them, which was a huge improvement.  I only have a 20w solar panel, so that upgrade is next on my list.

Back to Portable Chicken Coop Main Page

Brothers M. Mondays in May 2021 – Week 4 New Kid

Brothers M. Mondays is our way of showing you how excited we are for the first Seymour Farmers Market

And once again, a montage of the kids caring for the chickens.  This year features the newest addition.  Enjoy.

Music provided by Wintergatan – https://wintergatan.net/collections/download

Brothers M. Mondays in May 2021 – Week 3 Davy Jones’ Locker / Winter Chicken Tractor Rooting

Brothers M. Mondays is our way of showing you how excited we are for the first Seymour Farmers Market

Having an apron of wire mesh around the chicken tractor is a must to keep the chickens safe.  However, when not in use, the chicken tractors can get rooted to the ground with grass grows through the apron.

Part of the Mother Earth ShipWe stored them in the fall on top of concrete blocks.  It keeps the wood from sitting on the wet ground all winter long and helps keep the grass from growing through the apron.  But this spring the grass got away from us before we got the tractors moved and it was rooted. Being on concrete blocks, it wasn’t as bad as it could have been.  Using the weed eater, I cleared the grass from the top of the apron, and it pulled free pretty easy.

Seeing the chicken tractors like this made me think of the crew on Davy Jones’ ship in my favorite Pirates of the Caribbean movie and how they became part of the ship.  With pirates on my mind, the chicken tractor looked like a ship busting through waves as I pulled it across the field.

Check out the video and see for yourself.

Music provided by Wintergatan – https://wintergatan.net/collections/download

Best non-freezing Solar chicken waterer – Update

I’ve tried frequent waterer swapping, the lightbulb waterer, and a solar tire, but this solar waterer is the best design yet for my needs.  In part 1 I talked about the concept and design, this post actually included my 2nd update about using plastic to shield the insulation from pecking.  So this is my 3rd and possibly the last, update on this water.

When I put the waterer out this year, I was pleased to see the older chickens remembered what it was and taught the new ones; thus, bypassing needing to do any training.

 

Forgot before picture so I laid the pieces I cut back into place.

However, I underestimated the destructive power of chickens and they had pecked all the insulation off of the lid directly over where they stick their head in.  This suprised me.  Basically the chickens are sticking their head in a hole roughly the size of an elongated baseball.   Then looking up and pecking the top in the small cavity I left open.

 

So to fix it, I cut a new piece of insulation, then cut the lid to match it as best I could.  Of course duct tape was used to cover the seams for additional measure.

 

Then I cut a new piece of corrugated plastic from my ‘For Sale’ sign I’ve been using and placed it on top of the cavity where the chicken put their head into.   I had to trim some of the side insulation pieces to recess the plastic so the lid would sit properly.

 

The chickens have also been pecking the top of the insulation every time we lift the lid to add water and big sections in the corner are now gone.  Amazing what a few pecks a day over a couple months adds up to.  So I fixed the corners.  Then for good measure, I covered the top of all the insulation with duct tape to help prevent further pecking.

Head hole before applying new tape

Also, the duct tape around the entry hole keeps coming loose on the outside.  I’ve fixed it multiple times, but it just doesn’t stick for long.  The main purpose of this tape is to prevent the chickens from pecking the insulation on the inside of the tub, so I removed the inside insulation, as one big conglomeration, since it’s all taped together but not taped to the sides or bottom.  Then I put the tape on just the insulation, where it seems to stick the best.

Finally, when I pulled the inside insulation “cluster/conglomeration” out, it was a perfect opportunity to use come caulking to seal in the Twinwall Polycarbonat.  I previously used tape, but it was coming lose and given how well the waterer is working, I figured it was time to do something a little more permanent by adding a bead of calking to the inside perimeter of the window.

 

As mentioned in the first post, the water inside will still freeze, especially at night, that’s not the goal.  The goal is to keep the water from freezing in order to give the chickens an extended period of drinking time.  If it’s sunny, the temperature can drop in the mid 20’s at night and 32 during the day and the sun will melt the water that froze overnight in a couple hours in the morning.

We’re looking at weather in the teens and below zero in the coming weeks.  That means we’ll need to go out and dump the frozen water, which is why I use a rubber bowl.  When we replace it with warm water, if it’s sunny I don’t expect it to freeze for the rest of the daylight hours, even at those temperatures.  If it’s cloudy, we’ll check it and maybe need to refresh with warm water later in the day.